Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection: Women in Uniform

2015-11-4 fashion Fashion

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

I knew I was in for a real treat when I walked into the Park Avenue Armory, the long-time site of Marc Jacobs shows, and surveyed the scene: glowing pink gravel, a Pepto-Bismol tornado-dropped pink house inspired by The Wizard of Oz (a film Marc happens to love), shocking pink, pink, pink! On each seat were Beats by Dre headphones, and they struck me as a clever reminder: no one beats Marc Jacobs for showmanship. They weren’t just cool props; audience members wore them to hear a vocal narrative for an all-out immersive experience. Through the headset came a robotic voice: “Girl with long bangs and three bags, turn left. Knock on front.” It was at once bizarre, fascinating, and really, really fun.

Stage antics aside, the clothes are pure unadulterated Marc at his best. The Technicolor set could have fooled you; the looks, in a strict palette of dark blue, military green, muted khaki, and standard-issue olive, are worthy of a high-style army general or drill sergeant. Deglammed, there was not a stitch of makeup to be found on the models’ faces (I hardly recognized any of them!). Surplus chic was definitely the theme of the collection. Silhouettes of the military jackets, skin-cloaking suits, and multi-pocket dresses run the gamut from long and flounced to loose and baggy to short and flared, from squared-off at the shoulder to generously oversized (some suit jackets feature sleeves so purposefully lengthy, they only showed the models’ fingertips). Massive cargo pockets on almost everything send the message: utilitarianism is in for Spring ’15. But just when you’re thinking it comes without a stitch of femininity, Jacobs unleashes plenty of wide, waist-cinching belts (the hourglass shape is still in tact and on display beneath that fabric) and a whole slew of decadent, evening-ready satin looks with the same soldierly theme.

Great details also abound for luxurious militaristic touches, including large buttons and punchy baubles, à la ‘90s Marc Jacobs, plus seams and cutouts that emphasize the extreme precision of the tailoring. Add to the mix Dr. Scholl’s-inspired sandals – it’s all about the chunk! – and a practical range of bags, from some so big you can nap in them to large crocodile totes to tiny crossbodies, as well as a smattering of mod shifts, sheaths, and bubble skirts. Pockets, belts, and boot camp-grade toughness: Here you have it, the uniform of the season, and I mean “uniform” in the most authentic sense of the word.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Collection

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